Queen’s Jollof Sauce Brings West African Flavor to NC

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Queen's Jollof Sauce owner and chef, Abena Antwi. Photo by Jenny Midgley Photography.

By KURT DUSTERBURG

For nearly two decades, Abena Antwi has developed skin care products for Burt’s Bees. As a chemist, she formulates products such as lip balms, facial creams and shampoos. “It’s like you’re cooking in a kitchen,” she says. “It’s like a chef. You have to know the ingredients, combine them and come out with a product.”

So when Antwi merged her knack for blending ingredients with her love for cooking, something good seemed almost inevitable. During her childhood in Ghana, her mother and grandmother taught her to make jollof rice, a tomato-based dish that is a staple of West African countries. (Yes, for those invested in the jollof wars, this is Ghanian rather than Nigerian jollof.) When COVID-19 hit in 2020, she had a garden full of tomatoes at her home in Apex and plenty of time on her hands. “So one day, I just took the tomatoes and made a big pot of sauce and bottled it,” she says. “My sister said, ‘Why don’t you post it on Facebook and see if people will resonate to it?’ I think I made five jars. And it was like, if you want it, come get it.”

Her neighbors came for those first five jars, but soon they were lining up at her home every time she made another batch. The positive reviews from her neighbors sent her off to the Apex Farmers Market, where she whipped up the first 100 jars of Queen’s Jollof Sauce. “I had my display and the products, and I had the jollof rice cooking. I would mix it and serve it as a sample. We sold out.”

Antwi continued with her solo efforts, appearing at markets in Holly Springs and other communities, always getting the same feedback. “If they try it, they buy it,” she says with a gentle laugh. “I would say 90% of my sales come from people who try the product.”

Queen’s Jollof Sauce and other seasoning products Antwi has created are available at specialty shops around the Triangle, which keeps the products in demand and keeps her on the go. She recently returned from a business trip for Burt’s Bees, only to find she was down to her last case of sauce. The same day, she headed to her commercial cooking space and began turning out another batch. “Within six hours, I can make 300 jars,” Antwi says. “It’s a slow process. You have your tomatoes, onion, garlic, ginger, oregano and parsley. You have to roast the tomatoes first, then blend it and cook it. That’s where you develop the flavor.”

You can find Jollof Sauce at the farmers makret in Cary. Photo by Elizabeth Brignac.

 The proceeds from the business are used to address the poverty and living conditions Antwi endured as a child. “We slept on the floor growing up in Ghana,” she says. “I grew up in one room we rented. I would get a table and sell boiled raw peanuts for a dollar. We would buy sugarcane, bread and milk to help the family. My dad was always struggling, looking for a better place for us to stay.”

 

On a recent business trip to Ghana, Antwi helped dedicate a project she funded to build flushable toilets in her childhood community. She also brought 200 book bags for the children. “I was like them,” she says.

Antwi’s father came to the United States and worked as a dishwasher at Denny’s, saving money to put himself through school to become a nurse. He brought the family to the United States in the early 1990s when she was 15, where she graduated from college before earning a graduate degree in cosmetic chemistry. In 2008, after nine years at L’Oréal, Antwi moved to the Triangle. “My dad, he instilled hard work [in me],” she says. “I always had an entrepreneurial spirit.”

 

That tendency is evident when Antwi speaks of her products, offering hints and ideas with enthusiasm. “I use jasmine rice for flavor and fragrance,” she says. 

 

She serves the sauce for her own family nearly every day, putting together meals for her boys, ages 18 and 11. “As busy as I am, I just made chicken last night. Just stick it in the oven, drop this in, cut onions, bell peppers and that’s it.”

 

But wait, there’s more.

 

“You can take this and add it to your eggs. You can warm it and add it to pasta,” says Antwi. “You can use it to make chili, pizza … It’s very versatile. It’s already flavored, so you don’t have to do any work. It acts as a base for almost everything.”

 

Eventually she would like to scale up her line of Queen’s products. (Wondering about the brand name? “The ‘B’ [is] from Abena,” she says. “So then my friends started calling me Queen Bee.”) But working with co-packers has been difficult, given the attention to detail required for the recipe. In the meantime, the queen of jollof sauce will roast, blend, bottle and label her all-purpose delight on her own.

 

“Sometimes I catch myself like, you need to celebrate some of this,” Antwi says. “It’s been three years now. I just know if this was my full-time job, this could be really big.”  

 
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