Irregardless hits a half-century

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Photo by Juli Leonard.

For 50 years, the cafe has enhanced Raleigh’s culinary scene through innovation

By KRISTEN SCHRUM

For half a century, Irregardless Cafe—now, just Irregardless—has stood as a beloved institution in downtown Raleigh; a culinary cornerstone that has both shaped and been shaped by the city’s evolving tastes and values. A few places in Raleigh retain the spirit of the community as it was before the city’s exponential growth of the 21st century. Irregardless is one of them.

In fact, Irregardless isn’t just a restaurant, but a picture of Raleigh’s close-knit community, its commitment to sustainability, and the shared experiences that food can create. Today, under the ownership of Lee Robinson, Irregardless is working to preserve its legacy while looking toward the future with a renewed focus on community, celebration and preservation.

The cafe was founded in 1975 by Arthur Gordon, who co-owned it with his wife, Anya, and who opened it with the help of his brother and their friend Andy Arnold. They all sought to offer a healthier, more plant-forward dining option in a city that at the time was still largely unfamiliar with vegetarian cuisine. 

Opening next to a health food store, Irregardless began as a vegetarian sandwich shop—a novel concept at the time. “It was Raleigh’s first vegetarian restaurant, the first place in Raleigh to serve brunch, and it was farm-to-table before that was even a trend,” Robinson explains. Today, the cafe embraces a diverse menu that caters to omnivores while maintaining its vegetarian-forward focus.

Irregardless's grilled salmon entrée served on wilted bok choy with lemon piccata sauce. Photo by Juli Leonard.

Robinson’s decision to purchase Irregardless, which he did on January 1, 2020, was rooted in his deep love for Raleigh and his sense of the cafe’s central place in Raleigh’s culinary history. “I’m a preservationist,” Robinson says. Having spent 30 years in the restaurant business, which has included taking key roles at iconic Raleigh spots like Players Retreat and The Pit, Robinson’s focus has always been on preserving the heart of the city’s culinary soul. “I’ve always just wanted to save old places,” he says.

As Irregardless celebrates its 50th anniversary, the cafe is leaning into its role as a community hub. While it has continued to grow and adapt to changing tastes—particularly in the realm of plant-based diets and gluten-free options—it remains firmly committed to the philosophy that food can bring people together. 

For example, the cafe is embracing new trends that speak to the changing nature of social dining. Robinson is introducing a shift toward communal dining with the introduction of small and large plates that diners can share, replacing the traditional menu that is often split between appetizers and entrees. With this change, he hopes to foster a more communal feel and to allow customers to experience more variety. 

“We want to make it so that everyone in your group can find something to eat,” Robinson says. With a lot of smaller plates, he says, “everyone can try a little bit of everything.”

Lee Robinson, owner of Irregardless. Photo by Juli Leonard.

Irregardless will also continue to ally itself with nearby businesses. The cafe sources its coffee from Cup A Joe, beer from Trophy Brewing Co. just down the street, and bread from Union Special Bread. In the wake of Hurricane Helene they have also begun embracing products from western North Carolina, including beer from Asheville-based breweries. 

 

“Supporting our local community is just part of who we are,” Robinson says, “and it’s about more than just sourcing ingredients—it’s about supporting the local economy.”

 

To celebrate its 50 years in business, the cafe is hosting a major anniversary party in February, bringing back the restaurant’s founder, Arthur Gordon, and honoring the longtime customers and staff who have been a part of Irregardless’ journey. 


And the celebrations will not stop there. Robinson plans to revisit some of the cafe’s most beloved dishes from its early days with a special series of retro wine dinners. “We’re going to revisit Arthur’s original recipes,” Robinson says, referring to recipes from Gordon’s book, The Irregardless Cooks. “We’ll be bringing back those old-school dishes month by month throughout the year with ’70s, ’80s and other era-inspired menus.”

Irregardless is famous for its delectable weekend brunches. Photo by Juli Leonard.

Looking ahead, Robinson sees potential for Irregardless to expand its role as a cultural and social gathering place in Raleigh. “We’ve already poured $3.5 million into local music,” he says. The cafe’s live music, which has been a fixture since its opening, will remain a vital part of its identity. The performances help maintain the cafe’s connection to its roots while continuing to evolve as a space for future generations.

As Raleigh’s food scene continues to grow, Robinson’s vision for Irregardless remains centered on community—preserving the uniue character that has made the cafe a beloved institution. “I’ve waited tables and cooked my way through North Carolina,” Robinson reflects. “I love the community. I know the neighborhoods. And they’re what makes Irregardless special.” 

In an ever-changing culinary landscape, Irregardless’ commitment to both tradition and innovation is exceptional. As it celebrates its 50th anniversary, the cafe is a tribute to the power of community, connection and the enduring spirit of Raleigh itself. 

Check out more stories from around the Triangle at midtownmag.com.

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